@typhlosion @rey the FCC had a big crackdown on electrical noise in the 80s and they didn't really know how to mitigate noise like we do today, and didn't really have the tools to model it well, so a lot of 80s stuff has ridiculous shielding on it
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@typhlosion @rey If you care about compliance to FCC regulations,.... maybe?
if you don't, no
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@ziphi A thermocello is just when you light a cello on fire
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@typhlosion @rey i mean, it *could* be a mod if it's an early model NES, the kind that only had RF output, but I dunno why you'd go to the trouble of modding it and not use component or rgb
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@typhlosion @rey that's not a mod, some later model NESes had that
that's composite output, where the color and intensity information are both sent over the same wire
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@typhlosion @rey yeah i was going to do that, dunno if rey wants to be untagged too
it might be that? more likely to be artefacts of either the RF or composite output, which both lose some information in the process of modulating stuff
i'm assuming your NES hasn't been modded to have a component or s-video output here, if it has it's something else
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@typhlosion @rey @rainwarrior excellent! glad it worked
i could go into what the striations are if you're interested, but you're correct that it's a consequence of using it with a modern tv
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re: game dev
@gardevoir I don't really understand the interface here, i would think something like a cyoa? but then you have some kind of additional stuff off to the side
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re: game dev
@gardevoir what... is this?
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@typhlosion @rey (it's probably fine though)
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@typhlosion @rey yeah there could be corrosion on the cartridge pins too
if someone's replaced the cartridge connector on the NES side that doesn't necessarily mean it's good, for something like this you want pretty good gold plating on the contacts and nintendo used a pretty thin gold plating (which rubbed off over many cartridge insertions) and some of the replacements don't even use gold at all (good ones would probably be like, 30-50 μ" gold and yes that's a very cursed unit)
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@typhlosion @rey progress! try Lizard in it again maybe? That sounds like the closest thing to a known good cartridge you have
It's also possible the cartridge connector is too oxidized to make good contact; that's easy enough to clean. You can just spray contact cleaner in there and that usually helps, but you can also get these purpose-made things like this https://www.1upcard.com/products/the-1upcard-nes-console-and-game-cleaner-bundle?variant=20327843398
it's just an NES cartridge with a mild abrasive instead of electrical contacts, so it cleans off the oxide
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@typhlosion @rey hot kassy on nes action (it's a repair video)
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@typhlosion @rey Nope! That is indeed pin 4, and the only possible knock-on effect would be if some metal fragments bridge other pins; just give it a good brushing or even a spray from a can duster to get rid of any of those
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@typhlosion @rey outside of a few high-power packages, the only thing connecting the pin to the chip is a thin wire (gold, copper, or aluminum) that's a couple mil (1/1000 inch) in diameter. that wire can't transmit any force to the IC
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@typhlosion @rey Looks like you've done the job there honestly! it's very hard to damage the chip inside by doing anything to the pins on the outside
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@rey @typhlosion could be an impetus for you to get some side cutters though! you'd certainly have more use for them outside this project than kassy, who i don't know if she plans to do much hardware work, though i don't want to put words in her mouth of course
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@rey @typhlosion cutting the pin is probably safer and easier; when you need to remove a DIP IC and you don't need it to remain functional that's usually the best way to do it is just cut all the pins then desolder them one by one
you do need the 10NES to remain functional but not this one pin; I think there's other stuff that stops the system working if the 10NES is removed completely. i believe the pin you remove is just the one that connects to the reset signal
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@typhlosion very likely
i'm like 99% certain that the problem is the 10NES chip
if you don't intend to use any unlicensed games on it, some physical cleaning of the system, particularly the cartridge connector, might help--often the 10NES is still functional but whatever it does to verify games doesn't always work if the cartridge connector is a bit dirty. it's a temporary fix though because the 10NES seems to just always go bad eventually or something
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